Established
plants can benefit from fertilization. Take a visual inventory of your
landscape. Trees need to be fertilized every few years. Shrubs and other
plants in the landscape can be fertilized yearly. A soil test can determine
existing nutrient levels in the soil. If one or more nutrients is low,
a specific instead of an all-purpose fertilizer may be required. Fertilizers
that are high in N, nitrogen, will promote green leafy growth. Excess
nitrogen in the soil can cause excessive vegetative growth on plants at
the expense of flower bud development. It is best to avoid fertilizing
late in the growing season. Applications made at that time can force lush,
vegetative growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the
onset of cold weather.
Full sunlight is needed
for many plants to assume their full potential. Many of these plants will
do fine with a little less sunlight, although they may not flower as heavily
or their foliage as vibrant. Areas on the southern and western sides of
buildings usually are the sunniest. The only exception is when houses
or buildings are so close together, shadows are cast from neighboring
properties. Full sun usually means 6 or more hours of direct unobstructed
sunlight on a sunny day. Partial sun receives less than 6 hours of sun,
but more than 3 hours. Plants able to take full sun in some climates may
only be able to tolerate part sun in other climates. Know the culture
of the plant before you buy and plant it!
Pruning Trees
After Planting
It is critical to
prune trees correctly from the beginning to assure proper growth and development.
Young trees can be transplanted in a number of forms: bare root, balled
& burlap and in containers. The more stress the plant undergoes in
the transplant process, the more pruning that is required to compensate.
Deciduous trees like
maples (those that loose their leaves in the fall) can be dug up and sold
with their bare roots exposed. Because most of the root system is lost
in digging, sufficient top growth should be removed to compensate for
this loss. This may be done at the nursery before you buy the plant or
you may have to prune at the time of planting. Select and head back the
best scaffold branches, i.e. those branches which will form the main lateral
structure of the future mature tree. Remove all other extraneous side
branches. If the tree seedling does not have branches, allow it to grow
to the desired height of branching then pinch it back to stimulate the
lower buds to form branches.
Ball and burlap trees
are dug up with their root systems somewhat intact. This was mostly done
for conifers and broadleaf evergreens, but has become common for deciduous
trees as well. Since some root mass is lost in the digging stage, a light
pruning is generally called for. Head back the plant to compensate for
this loss and to promote branching.
Trees that are grown
in containers generally do not loose roots in the transplanting phase.
Therefore you do not generally have to prune them unless there is some
root injury or limb damage in the planting process.
Once you have your
trees planted, be patient. Do not remove shoots from the trunk early on
as these allow the tree to grow more rapidly and also shade the tender
young trunk from sun-scald. Wait a few years to begin training the tree
to its ultimate form.
Staking Trees
Staking is done differently
depending on the size and flexibility of the tree, and the windiness of
the planting site. Generally only trees that are planted in windy, exposed
locations need to be staked. For most trees, a low stake is preferred,
to let the tree move naturally. For windy areas or flexible trees, use
a high stake. For trees more than 12 feet tall, use two low stakes on
opposite sides of the tree or several guy ropes. The ties used need to
accommodate growth and not cause bark damage with friction. Buckle-and-spacer
ties can be found at garden centers, they are expandable and have a protective
spacer. Ties without spacers should be formed into a figure eight to create
padding. Latest studies have shown that when staking a tree, provide enough
leeway so that the tree can move back and forth in the wind. Stronger
roots will develop this way. If the tree can not move back and forth,
these important roots will not develop and the tree might fall over during
a storm, once stakes are removed. When planting a tree, stake at the time
of planting if staking is a necessity.
Planting a
Tree
Dig out an area for
the tree that is about 3 or 4 times the diameter of the container or rootball
and the same depth as the container or rootball. Use a pitchfork or shovel
to scarify the sides of the hole.
If container-grown,
lay the tree on its side and remove the container. Loosen the roots around
the edges without breaking up the root ball too much. Position tree in
center of hole so that the best side faces forward. You are ready to begin
filling in with soil.
If planting a balled
and burlaped tree, position it in hole so that the best side faces forward.
Untie or remove nails from burlap at top of ball and pull burlap back,
so it does not stick out of hole when soil is replaced. Synthetic burlap
should be removed as it will not decompose like natural burlap. Larger
trees often come in wire baskets. Plant as you would a b&b plant,
but cut as much of the wire away as possible without actually removing
the basket. Chances are, you would do more damage to the rootball by removing
the basket. Simply cut away wires to leave several large openings for
roots.
Fill both holes with
soil the same way. Never amend with less than half original soil. Recent
studies show that if your soil is loose enough, you are better off adding
little or no soil amendments.
Create a water ring
around the outer edge of the hole. Not only will this conseve water, but
will direct moisture to perimeter roots, encouraging outer growth. Once
tree is established, water ring may be leveled. Studies show that mulched
trees grow faster than those unmulched, so add a 3"" layer of
pinestraw, compost, or pulverized bark over backfilled area. Remove any
damaged limbs.
Problems
Pest : Aphids
Aphids are small,
soft-bodied, slow-moving insects that suck fluids from plants. Aphids
come in many colors, ranging from green to brown to black, and they may
have wings. They attack a wide range of plant species causing stunting,
deformed leaves and buds. They can transmit harmful plant viruses with
their piercing/sucking mouthparts. Aphids, generally, are merely a nuisance,
since it takes many of them to cause serious plant damage. However aphids
do produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can
lead to an unattractive black surface growth called sooty mold.
Aphids can increase
quickly in numbers and each female can produce up to 250 live nymphs in
the course of a month without mating. Aphids often appear when the environment
changes - spring & fall. They're often massed at the tips of branches
feeding on succulent tissue. Aphids are attracted to the color yellow
and will often hitchhike on yellow clothing.
Prevention and Control:
Keep weeds to an absolute minimum, especially around desirable plants.
On edibles, wash off infected area of plant. Lady bugs and lacewings will
feed on aphids in the garden. There are various products - organic and
inorganic - that can be used to control aphids. Seek the recommendation
of a professional and follow all label procedures to a tee.
Fungi : Powdery Mildew
Powdery Mildew is
usually found on plants that do not have enough air circulation or adequate
light. Problems are worse where nights are cool and days are warm and
humid. The powdery white or gray fungus is usually found on the upper
surface of leaves or fruit. Leaves will often turn yellow or brown, curl
up, and drop off. New foliage emerges crinkled and distorted. Fruit will
be dwarfed and often drops early.
Prevention and Control:
Plant resistant varieties and space plants properly so they receive adequate
light and air circulation. Always water from below, keeping water off
the foliage. This is paramount for roses. Go easy on the nitrogen fertilizer.
Apply fungicides according to label directions before problem becomes
severe and follow directions exactly, not missing any required treatments.
Sanitation is a must - clean up and remove all leaves, flowers, or debris
in the fall and destroy.
Pest : Caterpillars
Caterpillars are the
immature form of moths and butterflies. They are voracious feeders attacking
a wide variety of plants. They can be highly destructive and are characterized
as leaf feeders, stem borers, leaf rollers, cutworms and tent-formers.
Prevention and Control:
keep weeds down, scout individual plants and remove caterpillars, apply
labeled insecticides such as soaps and oils, take advantage of natural
enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden and use Bacillus thuringiensis
(biological warfare) for some caterpillar species.
Diseases : Blight
Blights are cause
by fungi or bacteria that kill plant tissue. Symptoms often show up as
the rapid spotting or wilting of foliage. There are many different blights,
specific to various plants, each requiring a varied method of control. |